Highland Reflexive Press

The Skin Edit · 02 / 06 · Skin literacy

A Clean Face Can Keep Its Dignity.

Cleansing, exfoliation, and the unfortunate prestige of overdoing it.

The performance of thoroughness.

Somewhere along the way, skin care acquired the manners of an inspection. There must be a sensation, a dramatic before-and-after, a convincing account of how much was removed. A face that simply feels comfortable can seem to have received insufficient attention.

This is an excellent way to sell effort. It is a less useful way to decide what a particular person needs.

Thoroughness is a judgment about whether the task was done appropriately. It is not a competition to see how much activity the skin can endure before the appointment ends.

Exfoliation needs a reason.

The American Academy of Dermatology notes that exfoliation is not suitable for everyone and can cause harm when done improperly. Method, skin type and products already in use matter; aggressive exfoliation can also worsen dark spots for some people. [1]

Cleansing and exfoliation also have different jobs. Removing the day’s makeup or surface dirt is not the same task as removing dead cells from the outer skin layer. [1] Agreeing that a face needs to be cleaned does not automatically establish that it needs to be exfoliated. A useful explanation names the purpose of each proposed step instead of treating the whole menu as a package the skin must accept.

This is enough to retire the assumption that every facial needs the strongest available step. A decision to omit something may be the most considered decision in the room.

Gentle cleansing is also part of the AAD's advice for dry skin. [2] There is no need to turn the word gentle into an apology. It describes an approach, not a lower tier of ambition.

Tell the person providing your care about recent products, reactions and procedures before agreeing to additional exfoliation. If a medical professional has given you instructions, an appointment should respect those instructions rather than improvise around them.

The luxury of being told why.

A worthwhile consultation makes an option intelligible. What is the step intended to do? Why is it appropriate today? What would make the provider leave it out? What should you expect afterward?

Those questions need not turn an appointment into an examination. They make consent part of the experience. An elegant explanation is still an explanation; it should survive being spoken without music in the background.

The same applies to the story told afterward. A visible change in appearance is an observation. It does not, by itself, establish that a disease was treated, that deeper structures were rebuilt, or that a stronger intervention would have worked better.

The most polished room should make restraint easier to trust. A face does not need to be persuaded that something happened by being made uncomfortable enough to remember it.

Sources for the skin-care guidance

[1] American Academy of Dermatology · Safe exfoliation

[2] American Academy of Dermatology · Dry-skin care